Wednesday 5 January 1994

A WINTER'S WEEK AT CAERLAVEROCK

"AVF is back again", "LYL, we haven't seen that one before", "This fruit cake is delicious!". It had become a ritual during our week at Caerlaverock to gather in the East Park Farm observatory for afternoon tea and to witness the daily spectacle of Whooper and Mute Swans coming in for their evening feed. Many of the Whooper Swans (and a few of the Mute Swans) wore yellow darvic rings on their legs each bearing a unique three-letter code. Feeding time, when the birds were either out on the bank or up-ending in the water was a good time to record the ring codes. Between 30 and 60 ringed swans were noted each evening and over 100 different birds during our short stay.

We had visited Caerlaverock previously, but had not realised it was possible to stay on the reserve. It was while on a visit to the Welney Wildfowl and Wetland Trust (WWT) Reserve in mid-summer (we were butterfly and dragonfly hunting at the time) that we discovered accommodation was available at Caerlaverock. It seemed the ideal place to get away from it all over New Year. Then we thought maybe some friends would like to join us. Which is how we came to spend a week (27th December 1993 - 3rd January 1994) in East Park Farm, enjoying the wonderful sights from the observatory and the good company of our friends.

Caerlaverock WWT reserve is situated on the northern shore of the Solway Firth about 8 miles south of Dumfries. It is renowned for the flock of 12000 Barnacle Geese and other wildfowl, most notably the Whooper Swans that winter in the area. East Park Farm lies at the entrance to the reserve and houses the reserve's offices as well as the visitor's accommodation. The Farmhouse can sleep 13 people in comfort. There are three double rooms (two en suite), one single and a dormitory with bunk beds for six (also en suite). The Farmhouse has a very efficient heating system, very important in the depths of winter and a plentiful supply of hot water. No food is supplied but there is a large well-equipped kitchen and an equally large, comfortable sitting room. And then there is the observatory.

The observatory runs the length of the ground floor, along the south side of the Farmhouse with a view across Folly Pond and Folly Field to the Southcott observation tower on the edge of the merse. On a clear day the hills of the English Lake District were visible. Bird-watching from the observatory could be rewarding at any time of day although we tended to be there first thing in the morning (although as sunrise was not until 08:45, "first thing" was not excessively early) and, as mentioned above, for afternoon tea. Although the swans were generally fewer and more distant in the mornings there tended to be more species to be seen. As the sky began to lighten, skeins of Barnacle Geese began flighting across the merse, as they headed from their roost to their feeding grounds. Usually, they were distant, but occasionally flew closer to the Farm, including one memorable morning when a small flock included a Red-breasted Goose. Before it was properly light other birds began to feed on the grain that the swans had missed the previous evening. There seemed to be a resident flock that included 30 Chaffinches, up to 70 Yellow Hammers, five Corn Buntings plus the occasional Moorhen, Pheasant, Dunnock and Blackbird. As the light improved it became possible to distinguish birds further out on the pond and surrounding field. If the pond was ice-free there were usually 200+ Wigeon, a few Mallard, Teal, Shoveler and Pintail while on the banks of the pond were flocks of Golden Plover, Lapwing and Curlew. However, if the pond and ground was frozen, as on half the mornings during our stay there were many fewer birds to be seen. A Peregrine was seen twice, once attempting to take a male Pintail but having knocked it to the ground was chased off by a pair of Carrion Crows. In the excitement of following the Peregrine we never did see what become of the Pintail. Buzzard and Sparrowhawk were also noted. These are just a few of the special moments seen from East Park Farm observatory. Our time spent at the observatory windows was rewarded with 41 species during our week's stay.

Not all our time was spent at the observatory window. We did get out and about on the reserve and further afield in Dumfries and Galloway. Venturing along the reserve's avenues added Goldcrest, a solitary Long-tailed Tit and two Bullfinches to our list. From Southcott Tower there were closer views of feeding Barnacle Geese, including an albino, although some of these birds were ringed they were too distant for the codes to be noted using binoculars. The reserve reception centre looked out over Whooper Pond which must be deeper than Folly Pond because it never completely froze over. Tufted Duck and Pochard were more often noted here.

A day was spent visiting Murray's Monument, about 12 miles west of New Galloway, but the hoped for Golden Eagle did not materialise in the damp murky conditions. A pair of Ravens flew across the valley and a skein of Greylag Geese followed the valley southwards. A picnic in the rain on the shores of Clatteringshaws Loch was enlivened by a small flock of Crossbills flying overhead and a Treecreeper foraging amongst the pine needles on the ground. The weather had marred what was an enjoyable day especially as on our return to Caerlaverock we learned it had been sunny there all day. Caerlaverock Castle presented an eerie spectacle in the freezing conditions and dense fog which blanketed the countryside on New Year's Eve. These conditions had prevented us wandering too far and the afternoon was passed skimming stones across the frozen moat.

New Year's Day dawned clear, cold and crisp. Thankfully, it remained sunny all day, although I doubt if the temperature rose much above freezing. Even so, it was a great improvement on the conditions that had prevailed on New Year's Eve. Roger and Phil, accompanied for part of the day by Brian, Jenny, little Andrew and Matthew, set out on a "big day", aiming to see as many species as possible. A route was chosen to minimise the driving and maximise the bird-watching time while still visiting a variety of habitats. As might be expected we started in the East Park Farm observatory where we recorded 22 species without leaving the warmth of the Farmhouse. A further 11 species, including Corn Bunting, were added before we headed for Dumfries, where Goosander and Goldeneye were found on the River Nith in the town centre. Then we drove south to Carsethorne, at the mouth of the river, where there were plenty of waders on the mudflats and our total rose to 60 species. A few more species were added at Southerness, but not the hoped for sea-duck or divers. The next stop was Loch Ken of Dee, where a solitary Greenland White-fronted Goose and several Farmland and woodland species took our total to 73 species. Jay and a singing male Crossbill were seen in Laurieston Forest but Coal Tits were conspicuous by their absence and nothing else was added on the drive across the hill road to Gatehouse of Fleet. A Dipper was the final bird of the day, giving a respectable total of 76 species.

Meanwhile, Marie-Lou, Frances, big Andrew and Peter set out to scale Criffel, the highest peak in the immediate area. The plan was to complete a circular walk of about 6 miles. The fact that the eventual route was not circular and turned out to be closer to 10 miles was put down to the previous nights festivities. Criffel was approached along a treacherous Farm lane where Marie-Lou and Peter gave a performance that would have put Torville and Dean to shame. Treecreepers and Crossbills were noted in a small patch of woodland on the east flank of the hill. The climb to Criffel was very popular, obviously our team were not the only ones using it as a New Year's Day restorative. Although busy the walk was very enjoyable and as the summit was approached very snowy. Once at the peak, the wind increased and the cloud base dropped, obscuring the view and curtailing the planned lunch stop. The descent was eventful with the snow masking deep holes in the heather, into which the intrepid quartet took turns to fall. While Frances was being pulled from a particularly nasty pit, a Red Grouse was heard. The drive back to Caerlaverock was memorable for a couple of Peregrines perched on telegraph poles. On returning to East Park Farm, while Frances and Marie-Lou prepared tea, Peter and Andrew went in search of owls. Stealthily, they followed the paths deep into the reserve, placing each boot carefully lest it should disturb the unseen quarry. Thoughts were very much of the warmth of the Farmhouse and tea in front of the fire, when suddenly, there was a crescendo of sound and a flurry of feathers as a frightened pheasant crashed out of its hiding place within inches of our now less than intrepid pair. Discretion being the better part of valour, it was instantly decided to retire to the Farmhouse for that tea.

Our final full day in Dumfries and Galloway was spent heading into the hills north of Dumfries in search of snow so that little Andrew and Matthew could build their first snowman. We found a suitable field without too much searching and, thanks to a friendly Farmer, spent a very enjoyable afternoon whizzing down the slope on fertiliser bags. In all the excitement the snowman never did get built, so we will have to leave that for next year.

During our winter week at Caerlaverock eleven assorted friends had shared East Park Farmhouse with us for varying lengths of time. Not all were bird-watchers but all enjoyed the natural spectacle of birds on show at the reserve and the surrounding countryside. We all hope to return in the not too distant future and renew our acquaintance with "AVF", "LYL" and all the other whoopers.

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