A WINTER'S WEEK AT CAERLAVEROCK

"AVF is back again", "LYL, we haven't seen that one before", "This fruit cake is delicious!". It had become a ritual during our week at Caerlaverock to gather in the East Park Farm observatory for afternoon tea and to witness the daily spectacle of Whooper and Mute Swans coming in for their evening feed. Many of the Whooper Swans (and a few of the Mute Swans) wore yellow darvic rings on their legs each bearing a unique three-letter code. Feeding time, when the birds were either out on the bank or up-ending in the water was a good time to record the ring codes. Between 30 and 60 ringed swans were noted each evening and over 100 different birds during our short stay.

We had visited Caerlaverock previously, but had not realised it was possible to stay on the reserve. It was while on a visit to the Welney Wildfowl and Wetland Trust (WWT) Reserve in mid-summer (we were butterfly and dragonfly hunting at the time) that we discovered accommodation was available at Caerlaverock. It seemed the ideal place to get away from it all over New Year. Then we thought maybe some friends would like to join us. Which is how we came to spend a week (27th December 1993 - 3rd January 1994) in East Park Farm, enjoying the wonderful sights from the observatory and the good company of our friends.

Caerlaverock WWT reserve is situated on the northern shore of the Solway Firth about 8 miles south of Dumfries. It is renowned for the flock of 12000 Barnacle Geese and other wildfowl, most notably the Whooper Swans that winter in the area. East Park Farm lies at the entrance to the reserve and houses the reserve's offices as well as the visitor's accommodation. The Farmhouse can sleep 13 people in comfort. There are three double rooms (two en suite), one single and a dormitory with bunk beds for six (also en suite). The Farmhouse has a very efficient heating system, very important in the depths of winter and a plentiful supply of hot water. No food is supplied but there is a large well-equipped kitchen and an equally large, comfortable sitting room. And then there is the observatory.

The observatory runs the length of the ground floor, along the south side of the Farmhouse with a view across Folly Pond and Folly Field to the Southcott observation tower on the edge of the merse. On a clear day the hills of the English Lake District were visible. Bird-watching from the observatory could be rewarding at any time of day although we tended to be there first thing in the morning (although as sunrise was not until 08:45, "first thing" was not excessively early) and, as mentioned above, for afternoon tea. Although the swans were generally fewer and more distant in the mornings there tended to be more species to be seen. As the sky began to lighten, skeins of Barnacle Geese began flighting across the merse, as they headed from their roost to their feeding grounds. Usually, they were distant, but occasionally flew closer to the Farm, including one memorable morning when a small flock included a Red-breasted Goose. Before it was properly light other birds began to feed on the grain that the swans had missed the previous evening. There seemed to be a resident flock that included 30 Chaffinches, up to 70 Yellow Hammers, five Corn Buntings plus the occasional Moorhen, Pheasant, Dunnock and Blackbird. As the light improved it became possible to distinguish birds further out on the pond and surrounding field. If the pond was ice-free there were usually 200+ Wigeon, a few Mallard, Teal, Shoveler and Pintail while on the banks of the pond were flocks of Golden Plover, Lapwing and Curlew. However, if the pond and ground was frozen, as on half the mornings during our stay there were many fewer birds to be seen. A Peregrine was seen twice, once attempting to take a male Pintail but having knocked it to the ground was chased off by a pair of Carrion Crows. In the excitement of following the Peregrine we never did see what become of the Pintail. Buzzard and Sparrowhawk were also noted. These are just a few of the special moments seen from East Park Farm observatory. Our time spent at the observatory windows was rewarded with 41 species during our week's stay.

Not all our time was spent at the observatory window. We did get out and about on the reserve and further afield in Dumfries and Galloway. Venturing along the reserve's avenues added Goldcrest, a solitary Long-tailed Tit and two Bullfinches to our list. From Southcott Tower there were closer views of feeding Barnacle Geese, including an albino, although some of these birds were ringed they were too distant for the codes to be noted using binoculars. The reserve reception centre looked out over Whooper Pond which must be deeper than Folly Pond because it never completely froze over. Tufted Duck and Pochard were more often noted here.

A day was spent visiting Murray's Monument, about 12 miles west of New Galloway, but the hoped for Golden Eagle did not materialise in the damp murky conditions. A pair of Ravens flew across the valley and a skein of Greylag Geese followed the valley southwards. A picnic in the rain on the shores of Clatteringshaws Loch was enlivened by a small flock of Crossbills flying overhead and a Treecreeper foraging amongst the pine needles on the ground. The weather had marred what was an enjoyable day especially as on our return to Caerlaverock we learned it had been sunny there all day. Caerlaverock Castle presented an eerie spectacle in the freezing conditions and dense fog which blanketed the countryside on New Year's Eve. These conditions had prevented us wandering too far and the afternoon was passed skimming stones across the frozen moat.

New Year's Day dawned clear, cold and crisp. Thankfully, it remained sunny all day, although I doubt if the temperature rose much above freezing. Even so, it was a great improvement on the conditions that had prevailed on New Year's Eve. Roger and Phil, accompanied for part of the day by Brian, Jenny, little Andrew and Matthew, set out on a "big day", aiming to see as many species as possible. A route was chosen to minimise the driving and maximise the bird-watching time while still visiting a variety of habitats. As might be expected we started in the East Park Farm observatory where we recorded 22 species without leaving the warmth of the Farmhouse. A further 11 species, including Corn Bunting, were added before we headed for Dumfries, where Goosander and Goldeneye were found on the River Nith in the town centre. Then we drove south to Carsethorne, at the mouth of the river, where there were plenty of waders on the mudflats and our total rose to 60 species. A few more species were added at Southerness, but not the hoped for sea-duck or divers. The next stop was Loch Ken of Dee, where a solitary Greenland White-fronted Goose and several Farmland and woodland species took our total to 73 species. Jay and a singing male Crossbill were seen in Laurieston Forest but Coal Tits were conspicuous by their absence and nothing else was added on the drive across the hill road to Gatehouse of Fleet. A Dipper was the final bird of the day, giving a respectable total of 76 species.

Meanwhile, Marie-Lou, Frances, big Andrew and Peter set out to scale Criffel, the highest peak in the immediate area. The plan was to complete a circular walk of about 6 miles. The fact that the eventual route was not circular and turned out to be closer to 10 miles was put down to the previous nights festivities. Criffel was approached along a treacherous Farm lane where Marie-Lou and Peter gave a performance that would have put Torville and Dean to shame. Treecreepers and Crossbills were noted in a small patch of woodland on the east flank of the hill. The climb to Criffel was very popular, obviously our team were not the only ones using it as a New Year's Day restorative. Although busy the walk was very enjoyable and as the summit was approached very snowy. Once at the peak, the wind increased and the cloud base dropped, obscuring the view and curtailing the planned lunch stop. The descent was eventful with the snow masking deep holes in the heather, into which the intrepid quartet took turns to fall. While Frances was being pulled from a particularly nasty pit, a Red Grouse was heard. The drive back to Caerlaverock was memorable for a couple of Peregrines perched on telegraph poles. On returning to East Park Farm, while Frances and Marie-Lou prepared tea, Peter and Andrew went in search of owls. Stealthily, they followed the paths deep into the reserve, placing each boot carefully lest it should disturb the unseen quarry. Thoughts were very much of the warmth of the Farmhouse and tea in front of the fire, when suddenly, there was a crescendo of sound and a flurry of feathers as a frightened pheasant crashed out of its hiding place within inches of our now less than intrepid pair. Discretion being the better part of valour, it was instantly decided to retire to the Farmhouse for that tea.

Our final full day in Dumfries and Galloway was spent heading into the hills north of Dumfries in search of snow so that little Andrew and Matthew could build their first snowman. We found a suitable field without too much searching and, thanks to a friendly Farmer, spent a very enjoyable afternoon whizzing down the slope on fertiliser bags. In all the excitement the snowman never did get built, so we will have to leave that for next year.

During our winter week at Caerlaverock eleven assorted friends had shared East Park Farmhouse with us for varying lengths of time. Not all were bird-watchers but all enjoyed the natural spectacle of birds on show at the reserve and the surrounding countryside. We all hope to return in the not too distant future and renew our acquaintance with "AVF", "LYL" and all the other whoopers.

NEW YEAR'S DAY BIRDING IN DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

Before the new year was five minutes old the first birds of 1994 were on the list when the pale shapes of both Mute and Whooper Swans could be discerned through the observatory's windows while the last notes of "Auld Lang Syne" were accompanied by whistling Wigeons. It was not long before I returned to the New Year festivities, content to leave adding more species to the list until the daylight hours. The observatory was in East Park Farm, at the heart of the Wildfowl and Wetland Trust's Caerlaverock reserve, where I had been staying with family and friends since Boxing Day. The reserve, on the north shore of Solway Firth about 8 miles south of Dumfries is renowned as the winter home of up to 12000 Barnacle Geese plus numerous other waterfowl. We had seen some memorable sights, including the Barnacle Geese accompanied on one morning by a Red-breasted Goose; a Peregrine perched on a male Pintail before being driven off by two Carrion Crows (I never did see what happened to the Pintail) and up to 180 Whooper Swans feeding outside the observatory every evening.

New Year's Day was going to be a "big day". The aim was to see as many species as possible. A route was chosen that would that cover a diversity of habitats with minimal driving to make the most of the few hours of winter daylight. On New Year's Eve it seemed that all the fun planning the route and anticipating which species that might see had been in vain. A freezing fog blanketed the reserve and surrounding countryside all day. I feared the same conditions would prevail on New Year's Day and severely curtail the bird-watching. Fortunately, the fog dispersed during the evening leaving a clear star-studded sky.

The New Year's Day birding began as early as the previous night's celebrations would allow. Given that dawn was not until about 08:50 this did not have to be very early anyway. By 08:00 I was waiting for the birds in the comfort of the heated East Park Farm observatory with a mug of coffee. The sky had remained clear all night, the fields were white with frost and Folly Pond was frozen over. Mute Swans(1) and Whooper Swans(2) broke the ice on the pond as they made their way towards the Farm, to feed on grain they had missed the previous night. A few Wigeon(3) were already feeding at the water's edge. A Robin(4) was heard singing briefly from the Farmyard while a female Blackbird(5) and a Dunnock(6) fed beside the swans. Barnacle Geese(7) had begun flighting as soon as there was a hint of light in the sky and in the course of an hour we had counted more than 2000 going over. As a result of the frozen conditions fewer wildfowl and other wetland species were present on the pond. Where there had been 14 species two days previously today there were only Canada Geese(8), Moorhen(9) and Greylag Goose(10). While Jenny supplied toast and more coffee the birds were beginning their breakfast too; Chaffinches(11), a male Pheasant(12), up to 40 Yellow Hammers(13), three Blue Tits(14) and one Collared Dove(15) were attracted to the scattered grain. A single Buzzard(16) flapped languidly across Folly Field, apparently taking no notice of two mobbing Carrion Crows(17), to land in a solitary oak. A short while later a second Buzzard was noted perched on a fence post overlooking the merse. As the sun rose, and the light improved, the sky remained clear auguring a good day. A flock of starlings(18) landed on one of the islands and an adult Heron(19) flew slowly across folly field causing more consternation amongst the Wigeon than had the Buzzard. Wood Pigeons(20), always late risers burst from the hedgerow alongside and a few Curlew(21) stood around at the southern end of the pond where a Black-headed Gull(22) joined them for a while. The two Buzzards were still on their respective perches when it was time for us to venture out.

Outside it was a crisp winter's day, cold calm and clear; very pleasant in the sun but chilly in the shade. House Sparrows(23) and Greenfinches(24) were attracted to the various bird feeders placed around the Farmyard. En route to the Caerlaverock observatory two Great Black-backed Gulls(25) headed east over the reserve and a flock of Fieldfare(26) flew along the hedgerow. A visit to the Caerlaverock reception centre observatory produced some of the hoped for waterfowl. The pond here must be deeper because it never completely froze over. Mallard(27), Tufted Duck(28), a single female Pintail(29) a pair of Teal(30) and Pochard(31) were seen but even here numbers were lower than on previous days. A Roe Deer hind wandering along the bank behind the pond was my first mammal of the year. As we prepared to leave the reserve a pair of Great Tit(32) visited one of the bird-feeders and a couple of Corn Buntings were found amongst the Yellow Hammer(33) flock.

Now it was time to head further afield. Rook(34), Jackdaw(35) and Skylark(36) were recorded before we reached Bankend. Halfway to Dumfries a stop to check-out another flock (more Skylarks) also produced nine Pink-footed Geese(37) feeding in a field further back from the road. The lampposts of the town provided perches for Common Gulls(38) and Herring Gulls(39). Five male and four female Goosanders(40) were watched fishing in the rough water below the weir on the River Nith at Whitesands in the centre of Dumfries where there was also a male Goldeneye(41) and a Pied Wagtail(42). The intended brief stop was extended when Andrew, my oldest son, inadvertently(?) flicked a glove into the weeds at the water's edge. As this was a Christmas present from grandma it had to be retrieved, and ten (or so) heroic minutes later it was. During my scramble along the base of the river wall I disturbed a Wren(43), the only one I can remember seeing or hearing all day (although that cannot be right).

From Dumfries we headed south along the western bank of the Nith, heading for Carsethorne and the mud-banks at the river's mouth. The weather remained sunny and calm and as the day progressed the frost disappeared from south-facing fields. These were host to large flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing(44) which in turn attracted a marauding Sparrowhawk(45). A party of Twite(46) were probably the most unexpeccted species of the day. It is not often my annual list includes Twite before Linnet. They were seen on the edge of a bean field where flocks of Greenfinch and Reed Bunting(47), were also feeding. Another Sparrowhawk caused panic amongst this gathering of small birds, as it dashed low along the edge of the field, but did not disturb any species we had not already seen. The mud flats at Carsethorne were rapidly being covered by the in-coming tide. Lapwing(48), Shelduck(49), Redshank(50) and Ringed Plover(51) were feeding over the mud flats but Dunlin(52) and Turnstone(53) were mostly along the water's edge. Numerous Oystercatchers(54) were feeding on a more rocky area of the strand and a single Grey Plover(55) flashed its black armpits as it flew up river followed a short while later by a male and two female Red-breasted Mergansers(56). Further out on the water a Scaup(57) and winter-plumaged Great Crested Grebe(58) were identified. A raft of ducks south of the village remained just that as the glare from the sun on the water made sorting them out impossible. A Song Thrush(59) feeding on the verge and a Kestrel(60) perched in a roadside oak were seen as we left Carsethorne for Southerness.

Southerness, sticking out into Solway Firth, was a big disappointment with none of the hoped for sea-duck. (Maybe we should have walked south from Carsethorne, sorry Phil). On a previous visit, at about the same time of year, but many moons ago, I had seen Eider, Common Scoter, Velvet Scoter and Red-throated Diver, but this new year's day there were only 100+ Great Crested Grebes on the sea. We spent a long time on the rocks by the 18th Century lighthouse, scanning the sea, hoping to turn up something but all we got for our efforts was a Rock Pipit(61) and the excitement of nearly being cut-off by the in-coming tide. As the water rose large numbers of Oystercatcher flew round the headland presumably to their high-tide roost, accompanied by a flock of 72 Bar-tailed Godwit(62). After a lengthy search a couple of Purple Sandpiper(63) were found amongst the Turnstone congregating on the highest rocks.

Lunch was eaten in the car as we drove towards Loch Ken of Dee. Stops were made at likely looking spots. The woods alongside the Boreland Burn at Caulkerbush held a roving flock of tits, including Long-tailed Tits(64) but we could not find any Dippers along the stream. Two Magpies(65), the only ones we recorded during our week in Dumfries and Galloway were seen in Farmland south of Dalbeattie, where a land-fill site had a flock of gulls (Great Black-backed, Herring and Black-headed) and one Buzzard perched in a conifer over looking the site.

The minor road along the western shore of Loch Ken of Dee was still icy, as Phil discovered when he got out of the car. There were many wildfowl on the loch including Cormorant(66), our first Coots(67) of the day and Dabchick(68). From a point near Livingstone Hill we counted 21 Goosander; the seven males looked particularly splendid in the winter sunlight. A pair of Mistle Thrushes(69) were seen near Mains of Duchrae Farm but we could only find a single Greenland White-fronted Goose(70) although others may have been hidden in folds of the land. As we walked back to the car a mixed feeding flock made its way along the hedgerow included a Goldcrest(71) and a Willow Tit(72) and a female Bullfinch(73) perched in a tree over the car.

Our final stop was Laurieston Forest, reached along the hill road from Laurieston to Gatehouse of Fleet. By now the sun was low in the sky and the temperature had begun to drop. For the first time in the day it began to feel cold but this did not prevent us taking a stroll along the road. A faint shape flitting through the tree tops may have been a Coal Tit. We did hear a Common Crossbill(74) and saw one briefly as it flew across the road but otherwise the woods seemed lifeless. Further up the road a pair of Jays(75) flew across the road and a male Common Crossbill sang from the top of a spruce. We were running out of light as we approached Gatehouse of Fleet but decided to check out the streams. We eventually tracked down our quarry on a small stream near Low Creoch Farm where we spent an enjoyable five minutes watching a Dipper(76) dipping. A nice way to end a very enjoyable days birding.

As we made our way back towards Caerlaverock along the A75 and a skein of 140 Pink-footed Geese flew south over the road we pondered on the birds we had seen and those we had missed. Species we expected to see but did not, included Eider, Golden Plover, Meadow Pipit and Coal Tit. Surprise of the day was the flock of Twite seen near Caerlaverock, while the highlights for me were my first singing male Crossbill and eventually finding a Dipper. With a little more planning and luck we might have got even closer to a first day century.