Aboard the Sunlander: Cairns – Brisbane

We boarded the ‘Sunlander’ at Innisfail, about 40km south of  Cairns, after an enjoyable 5-day stay on the Glen Dirran estate in the Atherton Tablelands. The train slowly mad its way south through sugarcane country and it was not until we got to Townsville that we had a change of scenery and saw some wetlands. Immediately south of Townsvill we travelled for 2 – 3 hours through an area of extensive marsh. It was difficult to tel whether the marshes were permanent or the result of recent heavy rains. Whatever, they were attracting a wide range of waterbirds. From the train we could only identify the larger species, including Brolga, Black-necked Stork, Black Swan and Australian Pelican., but other smaller species must have been present. An area worthy of further exploration. Darkness overtook us near Bowen, where we saw Australian Bustards in the twilight. Our second day aboard the ‘Sunlander’ was not so interesting as the train passed through much eucalypt woodland and arable farmland where birds were much more difficult to see.

Bird Watching on the Glen Dirran Estate, Atherton Tablelands

The Atherton Tablelands, south-west of Cairns in north Queenlsand, are a unique corner of Australia. The tablelands are a rolling plateu  at an average height of c.700m which was originally covered with rain forest. Now much of the land is given over to agriculture and less than 10% remains forested. Despite this the area is still rich in bird life and is one of the more accessible regions in which to view tropical rain forest birds in Australia.

 

The Glen Dirran Estate lies on the north bank of Dirran Creek, about 11km south of Malanda towards the southern end of the tablelands (see map). The farmhouse and outbuildings are near the top of a ridge (c.760m) with extensive views to the south and west. The house is surrounded by a large landscaped garden, planted with native shrubs and flowers. Most of the land above 720m is given over to pasture for grazing by sheep and cattle. There are some young orchards near the hosue where a wide range of fruit is grown. To the north of the house a stream has been dammed forming a small pond. Below 720m, i.e. on the slopes of Dirran Creek valley and its tributaries, the land isforested. Some of the upper slopes had previously been cleared but have now reverted to dense scrub. The remaining forest, lower in the valley, has been selectively logged and access to this area is along logging tracks. One main trail leading to Dirran Creek has been kept open. Many of the other trails are overgrown but can still be followed with care. Bware of the Giant Stinging Nettle Tree! Within the forest and next to the main trail is another small damn.

 

My family and I spent 5 nights at Glen Dirran from 6 – 11 March 1991. Common birds around the house include Red-browed Firetails and Peaceful Doves attracted to the seed feeders. Less common, but also seen at the feeders were Chestnut-breasted Mannikins and Crimson Finches. Laughing Kookaburras and Spotted Turtle Doves also frequented the garden. None of the shrubs or flowers were in bloom which probably explains why no honeyeaters were recorded. Common Myna’s were numerous, often accompanying the cattle by riding on their backs through the pasture and feeding on any insects that were disturbed. Several pairs of Magpie-Larks, a few Australian Magpies as well as Australian Pipit and Gold-headed Cisticolas were found in the farmland. I was told that Black-throated Finches were occasionally common along the road leading to the farm, but I did not see any. The small dam north of the farm attracted a pair of Pacific Black Ducks and a White-faced Heron. At other times, our hosts told us, Royal Spoonbill, Straw-necked Ibis and other ducks have also been seen. The paddocks around the house were also home to several pairs of Bush Stone-Curlews, which although heard calling during the night, were not seen. Southern Boobook and Tawny Frogmouth have also been recorded on the farm.

 

Although some of the farmland birds were new for me, it was the rain forest that held most interest and it was here I spent most of my time. As I had only recently left Papua New Guinea (PNG) I was familiar with some of the species Brown Cuckoo-Dove, one of the easiest to see of the rain forest species (although the Australian and PNG forms have subsequently been split); Wompoo Fruit-Dove; Superb Fruit-Dove; Yellow-breasted Boatbill, only female plumaged birds were seen and Spangled Drongo. Many species were new to me and many calls I did not recognise. The area around the dam in the forest was particularly productive because it offered unobstructed views into the canopy. Early one morning I spent an hour sat quietly by the dam and recorded the following: a party of Chowchillas, seemingly equal numbers of males and females, noisily raked over the leaf litter on the dam; a group of 4 Yellow-throated Scrub-Wrens followed foraging where the Chowchillas had kicked aside the leaves; a fruiting fig tree on the edge of the pond attracted several species including a Victoria’s Riflebird, much smaller that the Magnificent Riflebird with which I was familiar in PNG, a Spotted Catbird and two Double-eyed Fig-Parrots. In the scrub growing on the bank of the dam a male Pied Monarch was seen while a Black-eared Monarch sallied ut of the water chasing flies. On another visit three species of Kingfisher, Sacred, Forest and Azure were recorded near the dam.

 

Many of the trees in the forest were in fruit, but none were in flower. One bire I had particularly wanted to see wa a Cassowary. I was told they occurred in the Glen Dirran forest and favoured the fruits of one tree. These fruits were plum-like with a thick reddish sjin, pinkish flesh and a large yellow stone. Jenny, my wife, manage ti glimpse a Cassowary near on of these trees but I only saw the still steaming droppings! Grey-headed Robins were often seen feeding along the rain forest tracks. This species is conspecific with the Ashy Robin found in the mountains of PNG but although their calls are similar they bear little resemblance to each other. (As with the cuckoo-dove the Australian and PNG forms have subsequently been split).

 

Despite all these exciting birds, for Jenny and I the highlight of our stay at Geln Dirran was seeing our first Duck-billed Platypus. One evening we sat by the dam in the forest trying to turn every ripple into a surfacing platypus, until eventually one did surface. We watched it for about half-an-hour until it became too dark and it was time for our supper.

 

During our stay at Glen Dirran we recorded 63 species of birds although doubtless other species would have been recorded by someone more familiar with Australian bird calls. Many specialities of the Atherton Tablelands were seen, although Glen Dirran is probably too low for species such as Golden Bowerbird and Tooth-billed Bowerbird. However, these species can be seen in various national pars in the tablelands, all of which are readily accessible from Glen Dirran.

 

The owners of Glen Dirran Estate, Ken and Carol Ward operated the only farmstay on the Atherton Tablelands (in 1991). They offered comfortable accommodation, plus evening meal with  the family for up to five people at a time at a very reasonable rate. Guests were expected to cater forthemselves for breakfast and lunch. We and our two young sons were made very much at home. And there is free access to their patch of forest and its birds.

 

Glen Dirran species list:

Southern Cassowary

White-faced Heron

Pacific Black Duck

Swamp Harrier

Australian Bush Turkey

Bush Stone-Curlew

Masked Lapwing

Superb Fruit-Dove

Wompoo Fruit-Dove

Spotted Turtle-Dove

Brown Cuckoo-Dove

Peaceful Dove

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

Double-eyed Fig-Parrot

Australian King-Parrot

Australian Swiftlet

Laughing Kookaburra

Azure Kingfisher

Sacred Kingfisher

Forest Kingfisher

Australian Pipit

Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike

Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-Shrike

Pale-yellow Robin

White-browed Robin

Grey-headed Robin

Golden Whistler

Grey-headed Whistler

Little Shrike Thrush

Bower’s Shrike Thrush

Yellow-breasted Boatbill

Black-faced Monarch

Spectacled Monarch

White-eared Monarch

Pied Monarch

Grey Fantail

Willie Wagtail

Chowchilla

Eastern Whipbird

Golden-headed Cisticola

Red-backed Fairy-Wren

Large-billed Scrub-Wren

White-browed Scrub-Wren

Brown Gerygone

Mountain Thornbill

White-throated Treecreeper

Lewin’s Honeyeater

Eastern Spinebill

Dusky Myzomela

Mistletoebird

Silvereye

Red-browed Firetail

Crimson Finch

Chestnut-breasted Mannikin

Common Myna

Spotted Catbird

Victoria’s Riflebird

Magpie Lark

Australian Magpie

Pied Currawong

Torresian Crow