This is an account of a weekend that Brian Finch, Paulene Kibble and I spent at Bensbach Lodge. It was one of the most enjoyable weekends I have spent anywhere. I can only hope that this account will do it justice.
We left Jacksons Airport at 13:30 on Friday afternoon aboard Ian Hodgson’s Piper Comanche, having only received the ‘All Systems Go’ at 10:30 that morning. We had an uneventful three and a bit hours’ flight, passing over all our regular birding haunts at a height of 5000 feet. We reached the coast near Yule island and followed it round the Gulf of Papua to the mouth of the Fly River. It was then overland, passing over Morehead to arrive at Bensbach at about 16:35.
Birding had begun even before we had touched down when Torresian Imperial Pigeons were seen flying over the tree tops. They were much more common than around Moresby and when closer views were obtained were seen to be scruffier with brown mottling on their white plumage.
While our bags were transported to the lodge, we opted to walk and spent an enjoyable couple of hours around the airstrip. Several specialities of the area were seen including Blue-tailed Bee-eater and Magpie Lark. In Australia, the latter is commonly known as Pee-wee after its call, probably a better name for it as it only superficially resembles a magpie and looks nothing like a lark. There seems to be a trend to move away from these colloquial names which I think is a shame. There were distant views of a Spangled Kookaburra and a pair of Australian Magpies at the end of the runway. As evening drew in flocks of Swifts were seen over the airstrip, probably all Fork-tailed Swifts. A minimum of three Moustached Tree-Swifts were also seen flying over the trees, reminding me of terns with their distinctive outline, bouncy flight and relatively slow wing-beats. We walked along the track to the lodge in increasing gloom, listening to calling Barking Owls.
And so we came to the lodge where we were welcomed with copious amounts of muli (wild lemon) juice. This was followed shortly by an excellent meal prepared by our host, Brian Bromley. We retired early, anticipating an early start the next morning, but not without a look at the night sky where we were hoping to see Halley’s Comet, but none of the stars had tails.
We were out and about before it was fully light the next morning. The Barking Owls were still calling and a Large-tailed Nightjar was seen hawking for insects over the track. In the grassland near the airstrip we saw White-shouldered Fairy-Wrens. The female is markedly different from those around Port Moresby, having a dark cap, brown back and wings, white throat and buffish underparts. In an area of Melaleuca (paper bark) scrub we found Brown Honeyeaters and had good views of a party of Grey-crowned Babblers. A flock of Red-winged Parrots flew overhead, with almost luminescent lime green bodies and a large red flash on the inner wing. On our way back to the lodge for breakfast Paulene spotted a pair of Barking Owls perched in an Acacia. They watched us while we watched them.
After breakfast came the highlight of the weekend: a boat trip down the Bensbach River while we reclined in comfortable armchairs letting the birds come to us. This must be the height of decadence! White-bellied Sea-Eagles were hardly ever out of view, their pure white heads, undersides and tails glistened in the sun and contrasted with their slate grey backs and wings. Several pairs were nesting in trees alongside the river. Egrets and herons were to be seen all along the river and as we entered the riverside grasslands south of the village of Balamuk they were joined by Glossy and Australian White Ibises. Here, we also saw our first Australian Bustards and Black-necked Stork, both species dwarfing the other birds near them.
For the rest of the day our bird-watching was dominated by grasslands and marsh species. Huge flocks of Little Curlew were visible and we estimated that there was a minimum of 10,000 over the grasslands. While investigating a flock of these a Zitting Cisticola was seen carrying nesting material and a Red-backed Button-Quail was flushed. Also spotted was a late flock of c.50 Australian Pratincoles, that should have been down south at this time, and four Bush Stone-Curlews standing in the shade of some trees. Herds of Rusa Deer and Agile Wallaby were frequently seen.
Further south were some muddy areas, possibly silted up ox-bow lakes, and we had our picnic lunch beside one of these. Many species were attracted to the mud and shallow water including a flock of c.500 Magpie Geese, c.50 Brolga, some of which were dancing and 10 Red-kneed Dotterels, probably the highest count of this species recorded in PNG. A further six, presumably different individuals had been seen at another marsh earlier in the day. Other species seen at these marshes included: Red-necked Stint, Marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper and a Little Ringed Plover of unknown subspecies as it remained silent. A Wedge-tailed Eagle, identified by the dark colouring of its underparts and wedge-shaped tail, was seen in the distance.
En route back to the lodge we observed an Osprey carrying a fish over the village of Balamuk and a Blue-faced Honeyeater feeding at coconut flowers in the village. Our last bird of the boat ride was a Great-bileld Heron flying out from an over grown area of river bank. Yet another excellent meal, roast venison, rounded off an exceptional day, one of the most enjoyable I have spent birding. We retired early, once again dipping out on Halley’s Comet.
On Sunday our start time was a little more civilised, we even had time for breakfast before boarding the boat and again heading downstream. We stopped in a sedge bed and were rewarded with excellent views of Fly River Grassbird. Paulene and I probably being only the third and fourth birders to have seen this species since it was rediscovered by Brian. Further on, during a stop to photograph a Black-necked Stork, the Gods were really smiling on us. A harsh grating and churring song was heard which on investigation turned out to be the sub-song of a Great Reed Warbler, only the second record for PNG. It was skulking in a dense bush and brief views showed it to be much larger than Australian Reed Warblers singing nearby; the colour if wings and back appeared much more yellow brown. Returning upstream, we called in at the lodge so our boatman could show us the Papuan Frogouth roosting in the trees behind the laundry. Further upstream the banks of the river were more overgrown and as a result both Great-billed Heron and Striated Heron which favour this habitat were commoner than downstream.
Our weekend at Bensbach ended with another delicious meal, this time fried Barramundi. We had seen nearly 130 species, the majority from the comfort of an armchair aboard river boats, for which we thank the boat handlers. We extend warm thanks to our host, Brian Bromley, who enabled us to eat and sleep so well. And finally thanks to out pilot, Ian Hodgson.
If anybody, however slight their interest in natural history, is thinking of a quiet time away from it all, Paulene, Brian and I would have little hesitation in recommending Bensbach. Anyone who has a greater interest wildlife should jump at the first chance they have to get down there. It was the most enjoyable birding weekend.
Species List:
Little Black Cormorant, Little Pied Cormorant, Australian Darter, Australian Pelican, Great-billed Heron, Eastern Great Egret, Pied Heron, Intermediate Egret, Eastern Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Striated Heron, Nankeen Night Heron, Black-necked Stork, Glossy Ibis, Australian White Ibis, Straw-necked Ibis, Royal Spoonbill, Osprey, Pacific Baza, Whistling Kite, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Collared Sparrowhawk, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Magpie Goose, Raja Shelduck, Green Pygmy Goose, Grey Teal, Pacific Black Duck, Garganey, Common Scrubfowl, Red-backed Button-Quail, White-browed Crake, Brolga, Australian Bustard, Comb-crested Jacana, White-headed Stilt, Bush Stone-Curlew, Australian Pratincole, Masked Lapwing, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-kneed Dotterel, Little Ringed Plover, Lesser Sand-Plover, Little Curlew, Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Whiskered Tern, White-winged black Tern, Gull-billed Tern, Little Tern, Peaceful Dove, Bar-shouldered Dove, Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove, Superb Fruit-Dove, Pinon Imperial Pigeon, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Torresian Imperial Pigeon, Coconut Lory, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Red-cheeked Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Red-winged Parrot, Common Koel, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Pheasant Coucal, Barking Owl, Papuan Frogmouth, Large-tailed Nightjar, Moustached Tree-swift, White-throated Needletail, Fork-tailed Swift, Rufous-bellied Kookabura, Spangled Kookaburra, Blue-winged Kookaburra,Azure Kingfisher, Little Kingfisher, Forest Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Oriental Dollarbird, Blue-breasted Pitta, Noisy Pitta, Horsfield’s Bushlark, Tree Martin, Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike, Black White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrke, Cicadabird, Varied Triller, Grey-crowned Babbler, Australian Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Tawny Grassbird, Fly River Grassbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, White-shouldered Fairy-Wren, Willie Wagtail, Frilled Monarch, Shining Flycatcher, Brown Honeyeater, Dusky Myzomela, Puff-backed Meliphaga, Mimic Meliphaga, Graceful Meliphaga, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Little Friarbird, New Guinea Friarbird, Brown-backed Honeyeater, Rufous-banded Honeyeater, White-spotted Mannikin, Yellow-faced Myna, Yellow Oriole, Spangled Drongo, Magpie-Lark, White-breasted Wood-Swallow, Black-backed Butcherbird, Australian Magpie, Spotted Catbird, Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, Glossy Manucode, Torresian Crow.
First published in PNGBS Newsletter 218: 4 – 6
We left Jacksons Airport at 13:30 on Friday afternoon aboard Ian Hodgson’s Piper Comanche, having only received the ‘All Systems Go’ at 10:30 that morning. We had an uneventful three and a bit hours’ flight, passing over all our regular birding haunts at a height of 5000 feet. We reached the coast near Yule island and followed it round the Gulf of Papua to the mouth of the Fly River. It was then overland, passing over Morehead to arrive at Bensbach at about 16:35.
Birding had begun even before we had touched down when Torresian Imperial Pigeons were seen flying over the tree tops. They were much more common than around Moresby and when closer views were obtained were seen to be scruffier with brown mottling on their white plumage.
While our bags were transported to the lodge, we opted to walk and spent an enjoyable couple of hours around the airstrip. Several specialities of the area were seen including Blue-tailed Bee-eater and Magpie Lark. In Australia, the latter is commonly known as Pee-wee after its call, probably a better name for it as it only superficially resembles a magpie and looks nothing like a lark. There seems to be a trend to move away from these colloquial names which I think is a shame. There were distant views of a Spangled Kookaburra and a pair of Australian Magpies at the end of the runway. As evening drew in flocks of Swifts were seen over the airstrip, probably all Fork-tailed Swifts. A minimum of three Moustached Tree-Swifts were also seen flying over the trees, reminding me of terns with their distinctive outline, bouncy flight and relatively slow wing-beats. We walked along the track to the lodge in increasing gloom, listening to calling Barking Owls.
And so we came to the lodge where we were welcomed with copious amounts of muli (wild lemon) juice. This was followed shortly by an excellent meal prepared by our host, Brian Bromley. We retired early, anticipating an early start the next morning, but not without a look at the night sky where we were hoping to see Halley’s Comet, but none of the stars had tails.
We were out and about before it was fully light the next morning. The Barking Owls were still calling and a Large-tailed Nightjar was seen hawking for insects over the track. In the grassland near the airstrip we saw White-shouldered Fairy-Wrens. The female is markedly different from those around Port Moresby, having a dark cap, brown back and wings, white throat and buffish underparts. In an area of Melaleuca (paper bark) scrub we found Brown Honeyeaters and had good views of a party of Grey-crowned Babblers. A flock of Red-winged Parrots flew overhead, with almost luminescent lime green bodies and a large red flash on the inner wing. On our way back to the lodge for breakfast Paulene spotted a pair of Barking Owls perched in an Acacia. They watched us while we watched them.
After breakfast came the highlight of the weekend: a boat trip down the Bensbach River while we reclined in comfortable armchairs letting the birds come to us. This must be the height of decadence! White-bellied Sea-Eagles were hardly ever out of view, their pure white heads, undersides and tails glistened in the sun and contrasted with their slate grey backs and wings. Several pairs were nesting in trees alongside the river. Egrets and herons were to be seen all along the river and as we entered the riverside grasslands south of the village of Balamuk they were joined by Glossy and Australian White Ibises. Here, we also saw our first Australian Bustards and Black-necked Stork, both species dwarfing the other birds near them.
For the rest of the day our bird-watching was dominated by grasslands and marsh species. Huge flocks of Little Curlew were visible and we estimated that there was a minimum of 10,000 over the grasslands. While investigating a flock of these a Zitting Cisticola was seen carrying nesting material and a Red-backed Button-Quail was flushed. Also spotted was a late flock of c.50 Australian Pratincoles, that should have been down south at this time, and four Bush Stone-Curlews standing in the shade of some trees. Herds of Rusa Deer and Agile Wallaby were frequently seen.
Further south were some muddy areas, possibly silted up ox-bow lakes, and we had our picnic lunch beside one of these. Many species were attracted to the mud and shallow water including a flock of c.500 Magpie Geese, c.50 Brolga, some of which were dancing and 10 Red-kneed Dotterels, probably the highest count of this species recorded in PNG. A further six, presumably different individuals had been seen at another marsh earlier in the day. Other species seen at these marshes included: Red-necked Stint, Marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper and a Little Ringed Plover of unknown subspecies as it remained silent. A Wedge-tailed Eagle, identified by the dark colouring of its underparts and wedge-shaped tail, was seen in the distance.
En route back to the lodge we observed an Osprey carrying a fish over the village of Balamuk and a Blue-faced Honeyeater feeding at coconut flowers in the village. Our last bird of the boat ride was a Great-bileld Heron flying out from an over grown area of river bank. Yet another excellent meal, roast venison, rounded off an exceptional day, one of the most enjoyable I have spent birding. We retired early, once again dipping out on Halley’s Comet.
On Sunday our start time was a little more civilised, we even had time for breakfast before boarding the boat and again heading downstream. We stopped in a sedge bed and were rewarded with excellent views of Fly River Grassbird. Paulene and I probably being only the third and fourth birders to have seen this species since it was rediscovered by Brian. Further on, during a stop to photograph a Black-necked Stork, the Gods were really smiling on us. A harsh grating and churring song was heard which on investigation turned out to be the sub-song of a Great Reed Warbler, only the second record for PNG. It was skulking in a dense bush and brief views showed it to be much larger than Australian Reed Warblers singing nearby; the colour if wings and back appeared much more yellow brown. Returning upstream, we called in at the lodge so our boatman could show us the Papuan Frogouth roosting in the trees behind the laundry. Further upstream the banks of the river were more overgrown and as a result both Great-billed Heron and Striated Heron which favour this habitat were commoner than downstream.
Our weekend at Bensbach ended with another delicious meal, this time fried Barramundi. We had seen nearly 130 species, the majority from the comfort of an armchair aboard river boats, for which we thank the boat handlers. We extend warm thanks to our host, Brian Bromley, who enabled us to eat and sleep so well. And finally thanks to out pilot, Ian Hodgson.
If anybody, however slight their interest in natural history, is thinking of a quiet time away from it all, Paulene, Brian and I would have little hesitation in recommending Bensbach. Anyone who has a greater interest wildlife should jump at the first chance they have to get down there. It was the most enjoyable birding weekend.
Species List:
Little Black Cormorant, Little Pied Cormorant, Australian Darter, Australian Pelican, Great-billed Heron, Eastern Great Egret, Pied Heron, Intermediate Egret, Eastern Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Striated Heron, Nankeen Night Heron, Black-necked Stork, Glossy Ibis, Australian White Ibis, Straw-necked Ibis, Royal Spoonbill, Osprey, Pacific Baza, Whistling Kite, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Collared Sparrowhawk, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Magpie Goose, Raja Shelduck, Green Pygmy Goose, Grey Teal, Pacific Black Duck, Garganey, Common Scrubfowl, Red-backed Button-Quail, White-browed Crake, Brolga, Australian Bustard, Comb-crested Jacana, White-headed Stilt, Bush Stone-Curlew, Australian Pratincole, Masked Lapwing, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-kneed Dotterel, Little Ringed Plover, Lesser Sand-Plover, Little Curlew, Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Whiskered Tern, White-winged black Tern, Gull-billed Tern, Little Tern, Peaceful Dove, Bar-shouldered Dove, Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove, Superb Fruit-Dove, Pinon Imperial Pigeon, Collared Imperial Pigeon, Torresian Imperial Pigeon, Coconut Lory, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Red-cheeked Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Red-winged Parrot, Common Koel, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Pheasant Coucal, Barking Owl, Papuan Frogmouth, Large-tailed Nightjar, Moustached Tree-swift, White-throated Needletail, Fork-tailed Swift, Rufous-bellied Kookabura, Spangled Kookaburra, Blue-winged Kookaburra,Azure Kingfisher, Little Kingfisher, Forest Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Oriental Dollarbird, Blue-breasted Pitta, Noisy Pitta, Horsfield’s Bushlark, Tree Martin, Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike, Black White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrke, Cicadabird, Varied Triller, Grey-crowned Babbler, Australian Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Tawny Grassbird, Fly River Grassbird, Golden-headed Cisticola, White-shouldered Fairy-Wren, Willie Wagtail, Frilled Monarch, Shining Flycatcher, Brown Honeyeater, Dusky Myzomela, Puff-backed Meliphaga, Mimic Meliphaga, Graceful Meliphaga, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, Blue-faced Honeyeater, Little Friarbird, New Guinea Friarbird, Brown-backed Honeyeater, Rufous-banded Honeyeater, White-spotted Mannikin, Yellow-faced Myna, Yellow Oriole, Spangled Drongo, Magpie-Lark, White-breasted Wood-Swallow, Black-backed Butcherbird, Australian Magpie, Spotted Catbird, Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, Glossy Manucode, Torresian Crow.
First published in PNGBS Newsletter 218: 4 – 6
