A WINTER'S WEEK AT CAERLAVEROCK

"AVF is back again", "LYL, we haven't seen that one before", "This fruit cake is delicious!". It had become a ritual during our week at Caerlaverock to gather in the East Park Farm observatory for afternoon tea and to witness the daily spectacle of Whooper and Mute Swans coming in for their evening feed. Many of the Whooper Swans (and a few of the Mute Swans) wore yellow darvic rings on their legs each bearing a unique three-letter code. Feeding time, when the birds were either out on the bank or up-ending in the water was a good time to record the ring codes. Between 30 and 60 ringed swans were noted each evening and over 100 different birds during our short stay.

We had visited Caerlaverock previously, but had not realised it was possible to stay on the reserve. It was while on a visit to the Welney Wildfowl and Wetland Trust (WWT) Reserve in mid-summer (we were butterfly and dragonfly hunting at the time) that we discovered accommodation was available at Caerlaverock. It seemed the ideal place to get away from it all over New Year. Then we thought maybe some friends would like to join us. Which is how we came to spend a week (27th December 1993 - 3rd January 1994) in East Park Farm, enjoying the wonderful sights from the observatory and the good company of our friends.

Caerlaverock WWT reserve is situated on the northern shore of the Solway Firth about 8 miles south of Dumfries. It is renowned for the flock of 12000 Barnacle Geese and other wildfowl, most notably the Whooper Swans that winter in the area. East Park Farm lies at the entrance to the reserve and houses the reserve's offices as well as the visitor's accommodation. The Farmhouse can sleep 13 people in comfort. There are three double rooms (two en suite), one single and a dormitory with bunk beds for six (also en suite). The Farmhouse has a very efficient heating system, very important in the depths of winter and a plentiful supply of hot water. No food is supplied but there is a large well-equipped kitchen and an equally large, comfortable sitting room. And then there is the observatory.

The observatory runs the length of the ground floor, along the south side of the Farmhouse with a view across Folly Pond and Folly Field to the Southcott observation tower on the edge of the merse. On a clear day the hills of the English Lake District were visible. Bird-watching from the observatory could be rewarding at any time of day although we tended to be there first thing in the morning (although as sunrise was not until 08:45, "first thing" was not excessively early) and, as mentioned above, for afternoon tea. Although the swans were generally fewer and more distant in the mornings there tended to be more species to be seen. As the sky began to lighten, skeins of Barnacle Geese began flighting across the merse, as they headed from their roost to their feeding grounds. Usually, they were distant, but occasionally flew closer to the Farm, including one memorable morning when a small flock included a Red-breasted Goose. Before it was properly light other birds began to feed on the grain that the swans had missed the previous evening. There seemed to be a resident flock that included 30 Chaffinches, up to 70 Yellow Hammers, five Corn Buntings plus the occasional Moorhen, Pheasant, Dunnock and Blackbird. As the light improved it became possible to distinguish birds further out on the pond and surrounding field. If the pond was ice-free there were usually 200+ Wigeon, a few Mallard, Teal, Shoveler and Pintail while on the banks of the pond were flocks of Golden Plover, Lapwing and Curlew. However, if the pond and ground was frozen, as on half the mornings during our stay there were many fewer birds to be seen. A Peregrine was seen twice, once attempting to take a male Pintail but having knocked it to the ground was chased off by a pair of Carrion Crows. In the excitement of following the Peregrine we never did see what become of the Pintail. Buzzard and Sparrowhawk were also noted. These are just a few of the special moments seen from East Park Farm observatory. Our time spent at the observatory windows was rewarded with 41 species during our week's stay.

Not all our time was spent at the observatory window. We did get out and about on the reserve and further afield in Dumfries and Galloway. Venturing along the reserve's avenues added Goldcrest, a solitary Long-tailed Tit and two Bullfinches to our list. From Southcott Tower there were closer views of feeding Barnacle Geese, including an albino, although some of these birds were ringed they were too distant for the codes to be noted using binoculars. The reserve reception centre looked out over Whooper Pond which must be deeper than Folly Pond because it never completely froze over. Tufted Duck and Pochard were more often noted here.

A day was spent visiting Murray's Monument, about 12 miles west of New Galloway, but the hoped for Golden Eagle did not materialise in the damp murky conditions. A pair of Ravens flew across the valley and a skein of Greylag Geese followed the valley southwards. A picnic in the rain on the shores of Clatteringshaws Loch was enlivened by a small flock of Crossbills flying overhead and a Treecreeper foraging amongst the pine needles on the ground. The weather had marred what was an enjoyable day especially as on our return to Caerlaverock we learned it had been sunny there all day. Caerlaverock Castle presented an eerie spectacle in the freezing conditions and dense fog which blanketed the countryside on New Year's Eve. These conditions had prevented us wandering too far and the afternoon was passed skimming stones across the frozen moat.

New Year's Day dawned clear, cold and crisp. Thankfully, it remained sunny all day, although I doubt if the temperature rose much above freezing. Even so, it was a great improvement on the conditions that had prevailed on New Year's Eve. Roger and Phil, accompanied for part of the day by Brian, Jenny, little Andrew and Matthew, set out on a "big day", aiming to see as many species as possible. A route was chosen to minimise the driving and maximise the bird-watching time while still visiting a variety of habitats. As might be expected we started in the East Park Farm observatory where we recorded 22 species without leaving the warmth of the Farmhouse. A further 11 species, including Corn Bunting, were added before we headed for Dumfries, where Goosander and Goldeneye were found on the River Nith in the town centre. Then we drove south to Carsethorne, at the mouth of the river, where there were plenty of waders on the mudflats and our total rose to 60 species. A few more species were added at Southerness, but not the hoped for sea-duck or divers. The next stop was Loch Ken of Dee, where a solitary Greenland White-fronted Goose and several Farmland and woodland species took our total to 73 species. Jay and a singing male Crossbill were seen in Laurieston Forest but Coal Tits were conspicuous by their absence and nothing else was added on the drive across the hill road to Gatehouse of Fleet. A Dipper was the final bird of the day, giving a respectable total of 76 species.

Meanwhile, Marie-Lou, Frances, big Andrew and Peter set out to scale Criffel, the highest peak in the immediate area. The plan was to complete a circular walk of about 6 miles. The fact that the eventual route was not circular and turned out to be closer to 10 miles was put down to the previous nights festivities. Criffel was approached along a treacherous Farm lane where Marie-Lou and Peter gave a performance that would have put Torville and Dean to shame. Treecreepers and Crossbills were noted in a small patch of woodland on the east flank of the hill. The climb to Criffel was very popular, obviously our team were not the only ones using it as a New Year's Day restorative. Although busy the walk was very enjoyable and as the summit was approached very snowy. Once at the peak, the wind increased and the cloud base dropped, obscuring the view and curtailing the planned lunch stop. The descent was eventful with the snow masking deep holes in the heather, into which the intrepid quartet took turns to fall. While Frances was being pulled from a particularly nasty pit, a Red Grouse was heard. The drive back to Caerlaverock was memorable for a couple of Peregrines perched on telegraph poles. On returning to East Park Farm, while Frances and Marie-Lou prepared tea, Peter and Andrew went in search of owls. Stealthily, they followed the paths deep into the reserve, placing each boot carefully lest it should disturb the unseen quarry. Thoughts were very much of the warmth of the Farmhouse and tea in front of the fire, when suddenly, there was a crescendo of sound and a flurry of feathers as a frightened pheasant crashed out of its hiding place within inches of our now less than intrepid pair. Discretion being the better part of valour, it was instantly decided to retire to the Farmhouse for that tea.

Our final full day in Dumfries and Galloway was spent heading into the hills north of Dumfries in search of snow so that little Andrew and Matthew could build their first snowman. We found a suitable field without too much searching and, thanks to a friendly Farmer, spent a very enjoyable afternoon whizzing down the slope on fertiliser bags. In all the excitement the snowman never did get built, so we will have to leave that for next year.

During our winter week at Caerlaverock eleven assorted friends had shared East Park Farmhouse with us for varying lengths of time. Not all were bird-watchers but all enjoyed the natural spectacle of birds on show at the reserve and the surrounding countryside. We all hope to return in the not too distant future and renew our acquaintance with "AVF", "LYL" and all the other whoopers.

NEW YEAR'S DAY BIRDING IN DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY

Before the new year was five minutes old the first birds of 1994 were on the list when the pale shapes of both Mute and Whooper Swans could be discerned through the observatory's windows while the last notes of "Auld Lang Syne" were accompanied by whistling Wigeons. It was not long before I returned to the New Year festivities, content to leave adding more species to the list until the daylight hours. The observatory was in East Park Farm, at the heart of the Wildfowl and Wetland Trust's Caerlaverock reserve, where I had been staying with family and friends since Boxing Day. The reserve, on the north shore of Solway Firth about 8 miles south of Dumfries is renowned as the winter home of up to 12000 Barnacle Geese plus numerous other waterfowl. We had seen some memorable sights, including the Barnacle Geese accompanied on one morning by a Red-breasted Goose; a Peregrine perched on a male Pintail before being driven off by two Carrion Crows (I never did see what happened to the Pintail) and up to 180 Whooper Swans feeding outside the observatory every evening.

New Year's Day was going to be a "big day". The aim was to see as many species as possible. A route was chosen that would that cover a diversity of habitats with minimal driving to make the most of the few hours of winter daylight. On New Year's Eve it seemed that all the fun planning the route and anticipating which species that might see had been in vain. A freezing fog blanketed the reserve and surrounding countryside all day. I feared the same conditions would prevail on New Year's Day and severely curtail the bird-watching. Fortunately, the fog dispersed during the evening leaving a clear star-studded sky.

The New Year's Day birding began as early as the previous night's celebrations would allow. Given that dawn was not until about 08:50 this did not have to be very early anyway. By 08:00 I was waiting for the birds in the comfort of the heated East Park Farm observatory with a mug of coffee. The sky had remained clear all night, the fields were white with frost and Folly Pond was frozen over. Mute Swans(1) and Whooper Swans(2) broke the ice on the pond as they made their way towards the Farm, to feed on grain they had missed the previous night. A few Wigeon(3) were already feeding at the water's edge. A Robin(4) was heard singing briefly from the Farmyard while a female Blackbird(5) and a Dunnock(6) fed beside the swans. Barnacle Geese(7) had begun flighting as soon as there was a hint of light in the sky and in the course of an hour we had counted more than 2000 going over. As a result of the frozen conditions fewer wildfowl and other wetland species were present on the pond. Where there had been 14 species two days previously today there were only Canada Geese(8), Moorhen(9) and Greylag Goose(10). While Jenny supplied toast and more coffee the birds were beginning their breakfast too; Chaffinches(11), a male Pheasant(12), up to 40 Yellow Hammers(13), three Blue Tits(14) and one Collared Dove(15) were attracted to the scattered grain. A single Buzzard(16) flapped languidly across Folly Field, apparently taking no notice of two mobbing Carrion Crows(17), to land in a solitary oak. A short while later a second Buzzard was noted perched on a fence post overlooking the merse. As the sun rose, and the light improved, the sky remained clear auguring a good day. A flock of starlings(18) landed on one of the islands and an adult Heron(19) flew slowly across folly field causing more consternation amongst the Wigeon than had the Buzzard. Wood Pigeons(20), always late risers burst from the hedgerow alongside and a few Curlew(21) stood around at the southern end of the pond where a Black-headed Gull(22) joined them for a while. The two Buzzards were still on their respective perches when it was time for us to venture out.

Outside it was a crisp winter's day, cold calm and clear; very pleasant in the sun but chilly in the shade. House Sparrows(23) and Greenfinches(24) were attracted to the various bird feeders placed around the Farmyard. En route to the Caerlaverock observatory two Great Black-backed Gulls(25) headed east over the reserve and a flock of Fieldfare(26) flew along the hedgerow. A visit to the Caerlaverock reception centre observatory produced some of the hoped for waterfowl. The pond here must be deeper because it never completely froze over. Mallard(27), Tufted Duck(28), a single female Pintail(29) a pair of Teal(30) and Pochard(31) were seen but even here numbers were lower than on previous days. A Roe Deer hind wandering along the bank behind the pond was my first mammal of the year. As we prepared to leave the reserve a pair of Great Tit(32) visited one of the bird-feeders and a couple of Corn Buntings were found amongst the Yellow Hammer(33) flock.

Now it was time to head further afield. Rook(34), Jackdaw(35) and Skylark(36) were recorded before we reached Bankend. Halfway to Dumfries a stop to check-out another flock (more Skylarks) also produced nine Pink-footed Geese(37) feeding in a field further back from the road. The lampposts of the town provided perches for Common Gulls(38) and Herring Gulls(39). Five male and four female Goosanders(40) were watched fishing in the rough water below the weir on the River Nith at Whitesands in the centre of Dumfries where there was also a male Goldeneye(41) and a Pied Wagtail(42). The intended brief stop was extended when Andrew, my oldest son, inadvertently(?) flicked a glove into the weeds at the water's edge. As this was a Christmas present from grandma it had to be retrieved, and ten (or so) heroic minutes later it was. During my scramble along the base of the river wall I disturbed a Wren(43), the only one I can remember seeing or hearing all day (although that cannot be right).

From Dumfries we headed south along the western bank of the Nith, heading for Carsethorne and the mud-banks at the river's mouth. The weather remained sunny and calm and as the day progressed the frost disappeared from south-facing fields. These were host to large flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing(44) which in turn attracted a marauding Sparrowhawk(45). A party of Twite(46) were probably the most unexpeccted species of the day. It is not often my annual list includes Twite before Linnet. They were seen on the edge of a bean field where flocks of Greenfinch and Reed Bunting(47), were also feeding. Another Sparrowhawk caused panic amongst this gathering of small birds, as it dashed low along the edge of the field, but did not disturb any species we had not already seen. The mud flats at Carsethorne were rapidly being covered by the in-coming tide. Lapwing(48), Shelduck(49), Redshank(50) and Ringed Plover(51) were feeding over the mud flats but Dunlin(52) and Turnstone(53) were mostly along the water's edge. Numerous Oystercatchers(54) were feeding on a more rocky area of the strand and a single Grey Plover(55) flashed its black armpits as it flew up river followed a short while later by a male and two female Red-breasted Mergansers(56). Further out on the water a Scaup(57) and winter-plumaged Great Crested Grebe(58) were identified. A raft of ducks south of the village remained just that as the glare from the sun on the water made sorting them out impossible. A Song Thrush(59) feeding on the verge and a Kestrel(60) perched in a roadside oak were seen as we left Carsethorne for Southerness.

Southerness, sticking out into Solway Firth, was a big disappointment with none of the hoped for sea-duck. (Maybe we should have walked south from Carsethorne, sorry Phil). On a previous visit, at about the same time of year, but many moons ago, I had seen Eider, Common Scoter, Velvet Scoter and Red-throated Diver, but this new year's day there were only 100+ Great Crested Grebes on the sea. We spent a long time on the rocks by the 18th Century lighthouse, scanning the sea, hoping to turn up something but all we got for our efforts was a Rock Pipit(61) and the excitement of nearly being cut-off by the in-coming tide. As the water rose large numbers of Oystercatcher flew round the headland presumably to their high-tide roost, accompanied by a flock of 72 Bar-tailed Godwit(62). After a lengthy search a couple of Purple Sandpiper(63) were found amongst the Turnstone congregating on the highest rocks.

Lunch was eaten in the car as we drove towards Loch Ken of Dee. Stops were made at likely looking spots. The woods alongside the Boreland Burn at Caulkerbush held a roving flock of tits, including Long-tailed Tits(64) but we could not find any Dippers along the stream. Two Magpies(65), the only ones we recorded during our week in Dumfries and Galloway were seen in Farmland south of Dalbeattie, where a land-fill site had a flock of gulls (Great Black-backed, Herring and Black-headed) and one Buzzard perched in a conifer over looking the site.

The minor road along the western shore of Loch Ken of Dee was still icy, as Phil discovered when he got out of the car. There were many wildfowl on the loch including Cormorant(66), our first Coots(67) of the day and Dabchick(68). From a point near Livingstone Hill we counted 21 Goosander; the seven males looked particularly splendid in the winter sunlight. A pair of Mistle Thrushes(69) were seen near Mains of Duchrae Farm but we could only find a single Greenland White-fronted Goose(70) although others may have been hidden in folds of the land. As we walked back to the car a mixed feeding flock made its way along the hedgerow included a Goldcrest(71) and a Willow Tit(72) and a female Bullfinch(73) perched in a tree over the car.

Our final stop was Laurieston Forest, reached along the hill road from Laurieston to Gatehouse of Fleet. By now the sun was low in the sky and the temperature had begun to drop. For the first time in the day it began to feel cold but this did not prevent us taking a stroll along the road. A faint shape flitting through the tree tops may have been a Coal Tit. We did hear a Common Crossbill(74) and saw one briefly as it flew across the road but otherwise the woods seemed lifeless. Further up the road a pair of Jays(75) flew across the road and a male Common Crossbill sang from the top of a spruce. We were running out of light as we approached Gatehouse of Fleet but decided to check out the streams. We eventually tracked down our quarry on a small stream near Low Creoch Farm where we spent an enjoyable five minutes watching a Dipper(76) dipping. A nice way to end a very enjoyable days birding.

As we made our way back towards Caerlaverock along the A75 and a skein of 140 Pink-footed Geese flew south over the road we pondered on the birds we had seen and those we had missed. Species we expected to see but did not, included Eider, Golden Plover, Meadow Pipit and Coal Tit. Surprise of the day was the flock of Twite seen near Caerlaverock, while the highlights for me were my first singing male Crossbill and eventually finding a Dipper. With a little more planning and luck we might have got even closer to a first day century.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica at St. Mary's Island

At 19:50 on 12th May 1993 I saw a male Bluethroat near the mouth of the small stream just west of Curry's Point (near St Mary's Island, map ref NZ348753). Unfortunately conditions were poor, a cold north-east force 4 wind with driving fine rain so that my binoculars and glasses misted up, so I was unable to note much detail. Despite the conditions it was fairly active, feeding amongst the piled up seaweed and boulders, occasionally disappearing under the rocks. The most obvious features were the chestnut wedges on either side of the tail, only seen when the bird was flying and the pale supercilium broadest above the eye. Details of the throat were difficult to make out, other than it was a red-spotted bird with the red of the spot appearing to join with the darker breast band.

Conditions the following morning were much kinder and by 06:10 I was again watching a male Bluethroat feeding amongst the piled up seaweed and occasionally amongst the rocks. It was similar in size to Rock Pipits, which were also feeding amongst the seaweed, but with a typical chat stance. It hopped or flew short distances, but was not seen to walk or run. It was aggressive towards the Rock Pipits, chasing them for short distances when they came too close. In flight the rufous wedges on either side of the tail were the most obvious feature, but when the bird was standing were difficult to see. Upperparts were similar to those of a Robin but were possibly more grey. They were unstreaked. Cream supercilium, extending behind eye (but not much in front of eye) and broadest above the eye was another distinctive feature. Ear coverts were greyer than crown. The blue throat was not as neatly marked as in illustrations (suggesting this may be a young bird?). The blue extended as a triangle from chin to upper breast, with a small pale spot at the "corner" under the ear coverts (this is not shown in any of the field guides I have consulted). At the base of the triangle was a diffuse breast band, darker blue than the throat. I did not notice a rufous breast band as shown in the field guides. The rufous spot in the centre of the throat was not discrete and merged into the darker blue of the breast band. The remainder of the underparts were pale with a rufous wash on the flanks. My observation ended at 06:30 when a Kestrel flew over and disturbed the birds on the beach. I could not re-locate the Bluethroat.

A second male Bluethroat was also seen on 13th May 1993, just north of the start of Trinity Road (map ref NZ346746). It was first seen beside a small pool/puddle and then flew up to a fence post where it began to sing. The song was quiet especially when compared with nearby Reed Bunting and Skylark. This was a much nicer marked bird, looking more like the illustrations in the field guides. It had a small, discrete red spot in the centre of the blue throat. At the base of the blue throat was a dark blue breast band separated from a rufous breast band by a thin pale line. This bird was still perched on the fence and singing when I left to get into work.

Also seen on 13th May were 10 male and 3 female Wheatear on the Pitch and Putt course and 1 Whinchat close to the second Bluethroat.

A Windy Weekend in Suffolk

an account of the Hicks Family sojourn on the east coast and not the result of having too much sausage and baked bean casserole.

Friday 7th May
We just had time for a 30 minute bird watch around the Southwold boating pond while Jenny cooked tea, but it would perhaps have been more productive if we had stayed in. Only birds of note were four terns battling north against a cold NE5. First attempted string of the weekend had these down as Roseate before sense prevailed. It was a relief to get back indoors.

Saturday 8th May
It was still windy but sunny when we finally stirred. No crack of dawn birding for these dudes. First stop was Reydon Wood where botanising took precedence over birding. The floor of the wood was carpeted with Bluebells amongst which were a few colonies of Early Purple Orchid. Also noted were Greater Stitchwort, Yellow Archangel, Germander Speedwell, Herb Robert, Ground Ivy, Primrose and Common Dog-Violet. Several species of warbler were in song but among the few birds seen were a pair of Marsh Tits. Two butterflies, Green-veined White and Holly Blue were noted in the shelter of the wood. We collected a pile of coppiced poles and transported them to Alan's school before returning to base for a well earned lunch.

Over lunch the weather deteriorated; it was still windy but the sun had been replaced by clouds and occasional showers. This prompted us to head for Minsmere where at least we could shelter in the hides. We made a brief stop, en route, in Dunwich Forest to search for Woodlarks but the high wind put paid to our hopes. Jenny, Andrew and Matthew made the wise decision to stay in the car for a snooze.

And so to Minsmere. One of the first birds was a Shelduck, flying out of a hole at the base of the Sand Martin cliff, where presumably it was nesting. We opted to walk round the scrape and ignoring the North hide, set off along the dyke to the sea wall. The boys enjoyed the traditional hide and seek among the tank traps as we made our way to the first hide. After disappointing visits last year, this time the scrape lived up to its reputation with many birds to be seen including summer-plumaged Spotted Redshank (1), Bar-tailed Godwit (24), Black-tailed Godwit (3) and Dunlin (8). Also present were three species of tern (Sandwich, Common and Little) and more than 100 Avocet. Matthew was tickled pink at being able to see things through his binoculars - one of the few times he has managed this feat, Andrew was a bit more blase. Bird-watching from the hides was comfortable; walking between the hides was distinctly less enjoyable with relatively few birds to enliven proceedings.

As we made our way along the path between the scrape and marsh two more strings were perpetrated - those Mallard really did look small, but as for the swan! The highlight of the day (for Roger) was still to come. From the north-western hide (I forget its name) almost the first bird seen when we looked out over the northern end of the scrape was a smallish duck with a large white flank patch and brownish breast. Nothing could be seen of its head because this was underwater as it fed. When it lifted its head it was brown with a broad white supercilium sweeping back behind the eye - a spring Garganey. Now, Garganey has been something of a bogey bird in the U.K. with countless excursions failing to produce one until just before I left for PNG - but that was a drab bird in eclipse (which hardly counts when compared with a bird in breeding plumage). If only we had gone into the North Hide at the start of our walk we would have seen it that much earlier. As we left the hide, Andrew and Matthew were delighted to find a male and female Pheasant feeding on the path within only a few feet. We rounded off our day with a pint in the Eels Foot before heading for home and the sausage and bean casserole.

Sunday 8th May
Again the weather did not look too promising; it was overcast and the wind persisted. So again we opted for Minsmere. First stop this time was the North Hide, but no sign of the Garganey this morning. The most contentious bird of the weekend was a gull that was the centre of an argument in the hide. I did not get on to it until just before it flew, but saw enough to be doubtful it was a BHG. Subsequent perusal of Alan's library suggested it was probably a first-summer Med. Gull. Today we headed for the woods and marsh. We were well rewarded with excellent views of a food pass between a male and female Marsh Harrier; also seen were a pair of Turtle Doves while heard from the reed beds were Reed and Sedge Warbler and Bearded Tit. The first Swifts of the year were noted, with the number over the marsh steadily increasing while we watched. A Nightingale was heard singing, from the same bush where we had recorded one last year, but the strangest record was bumping into Andrew Lyburn (ex-PNG) and his dad. The final string was trying to make a fritillary out of a wall brown and then it was back to Alan's for lunch. Needless to say, as it was time to go home the sun was shining.

SPECIES LIST : 7TH - 9TH MAY 1993
Key: D = Dunwich Forest; R = Reydon Woods S = The scrape; M = Rest of Minsmere;
Great-crested Grebe M
Cormorant M
Grey Heron SM
Mute Swan SM
Greylag Goose SM
Canada Goose S
Shelduck SM
Wigeon S
Gadwall S
Teal S
Mallard SM
Pintail S
Garganey S
Shoveler S
Pochard M
Tufted Duck M
Marsh Harrier M
Kestrel
Red-legged Partridge D
Grey Partridge
Pheasant SMD
Moorhen SM
Coot SM
Oystercatcher SM
Avocet S
Ringed Plover S
Lapwing SM
Dunlin S
Ruff S
Snipe S
Black-tailed Godwit S
Bar-tailed Godwit S
Spotted Redshank S
Redshank SM
Common Sandpiper S
Turnstone S
Mediterrannean Gull S
Common Gull SM
Black-headed Gull SM
Lesser Black-backed Gull S
Herring Gull SMDR
Great Black-backed Gull M
Kittiwake S
Sandwich Tern S
Common Tern S
Little Tern S
Wood Pigeon SMDR
Stock Dove M
Collared Dove
Turtle Dove M
Cuckoo SM
Swift M
Skylark
Sand Martin SM
Swallow SM
Pied Wagtail MD
Wren MDR
Dunnock M
Robin MDR
Nightingale M
Blackbird MDR
Song Thrush MD
Mistle Thrush M
Sedge Warbler M
Reed Warbler M
Lesser Whitethroat D
Whitethroat MDR
Garden Warbler M
Blackcap MDR
Chiffchaff MDR
Willow Warbler SMDR
Bearded Tit M
Long-tailed Tit M
Marsh Tit MR
Blue Tit MDR
Great Tit MDR
Jay MD
Magpie SM
Jackdaw M
Rook M
Carrion Crow SM
Starling SM
House Sparrow M
Chaffinch MD
Goldfinch M
Linnet SM

Reed Bunting M

Aboard the Sunlander: Cairns – Brisbane

We boarded the ‘Sunlander’ at Innisfail, about 40km south of  Cairns, after an enjoyable 5-day stay on the Glen Dirran estate in the Atherton Tablelands. The train slowly mad its way south through sugarcane country and it was not until we got to Townsville that we had a change of scenery and saw some wetlands. Immediately south of Townsvill we travelled for 2 – 3 hours through an area of extensive marsh. It was difficult to tel whether the marshes were permanent or the result of recent heavy rains. Whatever, they were attracting a wide range of waterbirds. From the train we could only identify the larger species, including Brolga, Black-necked Stork, Black Swan and Australian Pelican., but other smaller species must have been present. An area worthy of further exploration. Darkness overtook us near Bowen, where we saw Australian Bustards in the twilight. Our second day aboard the ‘Sunlander’ was not so interesting as the train passed through much eucalypt woodland and arable farmland where birds were much more difficult to see.

Bird Watching on the Glen Dirran Estate, Atherton Tablelands

The Atherton Tablelands, south-west of Cairns in north Queenlsand, are a unique corner of Australia. The tablelands are a rolling plateu  at an average height of c.700m which was originally covered with rain forest. Now much of the land is given over to agriculture and less than 10% remains forested. Despite this the area is still rich in bird life and is one of the more accessible regions in which to view tropical rain forest birds in Australia.

 

The Glen Dirran Estate lies on the north bank of Dirran Creek, about 11km south of Malanda towards the southern end of the tablelands (see map). The farmhouse and outbuildings are near the top of a ridge (c.760m) with extensive views to the south and west. The house is surrounded by a large landscaped garden, planted with native shrubs and flowers. Most of the land above 720m is given over to pasture for grazing by sheep and cattle. There are some young orchards near the hosue where a wide range of fruit is grown. To the north of the house a stream has been dammed forming a small pond. Below 720m, i.e. on the slopes of Dirran Creek valley and its tributaries, the land isforested. Some of the upper slopes had previously been cleared but have now reverted to dense scrub. The remaining forest, lower in the valley, has been selectively logged and access to this area is along logging tracks. One main trail leading to Dirran Creek has been kept open. Many of the other trails are overgrown but can still be followed with care. Bware of the Giant Stinging Nettle Tree! Within the forest and next to the main trail is another small damn.

 

My family and I spent 5 nights at Glen Dirran from 6 – 11 March 1991. Common birds around the house include Red-browed Firetails and Peaceful Doves attracted to the seed feeders. Less common, but also seen at the feeders were Chestnut-breasted Mannikins and Crimson Finches. Laughing Kookaburras and Spotted Turtle Doves also frequented the garden. None of the shrubs or flowers were in bloom which probably explains why no honeyeaters were recorded. Common Myna’s were numerous, often accompanying the cattle by riding on their backs through the pasture and feeding on any insects that were disturbed. Several pairs of Magpie-Larks, a few Australian Magpies as well as Australian Pipit and Gold-headed Cisticolas were found in the farmland. I was told that Black-throated Finches were occasionally common along the road leading to the farm, but I did not see any. The small dam north of the farm attracted a pair of Pacific Black Ducks and a White-faced Heron. At other times, our hosts told us, Royal Spoonbill, Straw-necked Ibis and other ducks have also been seen. The paddocks around the house were also home to several pairs of Bush Stone-Curlews, which although heard calling during the night, were not seen. Southern Boobook and Tawny Frogmouth have also been recorded on the farm.

 

Although some of the farmland birds were new for me, it was the rain forest that held most interest and it was here I spent most of my time. As I had only recently left Papua New Guinea (PNG) I was familiar with some of the species Brown Cuckoo-Dove, one of the easiest to see of the rain forest species (although the Australian and PNG forms have subsequently been split); Wompoo Fruit-Dove; Superb Fruit-Dove; Yellow-breasted Boatbill, only female plumaged birds were seen and Spangled Drongo. Many species were new to me and many calls I did not recognise. The area around the dam in the forest was particularly productive because it offered unobstructed views into the canopy. Early one morning I spent an hour sat quietly by the dam and recorded the following: a party of Chowchillas, seemingly equal numbers of males and females, noisily raked over the leaf litter on the dam; a group of 4 Yellow-throated Scrub-Wrens followed foraging where the Chowchillas had kicked aside the leaves; a fruiting fig tree on the edge of the pond attracted several species including a Victoria’s Riflebird, much smaller that the Magnificent Riflebird with which I was familiar in PNG, a Spotted Catbird and two Double-eyed Fig-Parrots. In the scrub growing on the bank of the dam a male Pied Monarch was seen while a Black-eared Monarch sallied ut of the water chasing flies. On another visit three species of Kingfisher, Sacred, Forest and Azure were recorded near the dam.

 

Many of the trees in the forest were in fruit, but none were in flower. One bire I had particularly wanted to see wa a Cassowary. I was told they occurred in the Glen Dirran forest and favoured the fruits of one tree. These fruits were plum-like with a thick reddish sjin, pinkish flesh and a large yellow stone. Jenny, my wife, manage ti glimpse a Cassowary near on of these trees but I only saw the still steaming droppings! Grey-headed Robins were often seen feeding along the rain forest tracks. This species is conspecific with the Ashy Robin found in the mountains of PNG but although their calls are similar they bear little resemblance to each other. (As with the cuckoo-dove the Australian and PNG forms have subsequently been split).

 

Despite all these exciting birds, for Jenny and I the highlight of our stay at Geln Dirran was seeing our first Duck-billed Platypus. One evening we sat by the dam in the forest trying to turn every ripple into a surfacing platypus, until eventually one did surface. We watched it for about half-an-hour until it became too dark and it was time for our supper.

 

During our stay at Glen Dirran we recorded 63 species of birds although doubtless other species would have been recorded by someone more familiar with Australian bird calls. Many specialities of the Atherton Tablelands were seen, although Glen Dirran is probably too low for species such as Golden Bowerbird and Tooth-billed Bowerbird. However, these species can be seen in various national pars in the tablelands, all of which are readily accessible from Glen Dirran.

 

The owners of Glen Dirran Estate, Ken and Carol Ward operated the only farmstay on the Atherton Tablelands (in 1991). They offered comfortable accommodation, plus evening meal with  the family for up to five people at a time at a very reasonable rate. Guests were expected to cater forthemselves for breakfast and lunch. We and our two young sons were made very much at home. And there is free access to their patch of forest and its birds.

 

Glen Dirran species list:

Southern Cassowary

White-faced Heron

Pacific Black Duck

Swamp Harrier

Australian Bush Turkey

Bush Stone-Curlew

Masked Lapwing

Superb Fruit-Dove

Wompoo Fruit-Dove

Spotted Turtle-Dove

Brown Cuckoo-Dove

Peaceful Dove

Sulphur-crested Cockatoo

Double-eyed Fig-Parrot

Australian King-Parrot

Australian Swiftlet

Laughing Kookaburra

Azure Kingfisher

Sacred Kingfisher

Forest Kingfisher

Australian Pipit

Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike

Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-Shrike

Pale-yellow Robin

White-browed Robin

Grey-headed Robin

Golden Whistler

Grey-headed Whistler

Little Shrike Thrush

Bower’s Shrike Thrush

Yellow-breasted Boatbill

Black-faced Monarch

Spectacled Monarch

White-eared Monarch

Pied Monarch

Grey Fantail

Willie Wagtail

Chowchilla

Eastern Whipbird

Golden-headed Cisticola

Red-backed Fairy-Wren

Large-billed Scrub-Wren

White-browed Scrub-Wren

Brown Gerygone

Mountain Thornbill

White-throated Treecreeper

Lewin’s Honeyeater

Eastern Spinebill

Dusky Myzomela

Mistletoebird

Silvereye

Red-browed Firetail

Crimson Finch

Chestnut-breasted Mannikin

Common Myna

Spotted Catbird

Victoria’s Riflebird

Magpie Lark

Australian Magpie

Pied Currawong

Torresian Crow

ASIAN WATERFOWL CENSUS : PORT MORESBY AREA 1991

This was the second year in which the PNGBS had participated in the Asian Waterfowl Census (AWC). The AWC is co-ordinated by the International Waterfowl and Wetlands Research Bureau (IWRB) and Asian Wetlands Bureau (AWB) with the aim of gathering information on the mid-winter (January) waterfowl populations at wetlands throughout Asia (Scott & Rose 1989). Twenty-eight countries had participated in 1990, recording more than 200 species at 1476 sites (Perennou, Rose & Poole 1990) including, for the first time, PNG where 59 species were recorded at 8 sites (52 species at 7 sites in the Port Moresby area, Hicks 1991). The avifauna of PNG is more akin to that of Australia than Asia, although PNG was included in the Directory of Asian Wetlands (DAW) (Scott 1989). January is not the best month to conduct a census of waterfowl in the Port Moresby area, as it is the height of the wet season. As a consequence the area of wetland is greatly increased as the floodplains become inundated and access to some sites becomes impossible. As the waterfowl become dispersed over a greater area, numbers at accessible sites are reduced.

Between 6 January 1991 and 3 February 1991, six members of the PNGBS (Helen Fortune, Will Glynn, Roger Hicks, Andrew Hicks, Prakash and Shobha Srinivasen) visited nine wetland sites in the Port Moresby area, six of which are included in the DAW. All sites visited for the 1990 AWC were also visited in 1991, with the exception of Hisiu Beach. Access to this site was impossible because the bridge at Hisiu mangroves had been washed away. Three new sites were included; the Oxbow at Veikabu and the Pacific Adventist College (PAC) campus and Kobibi Swamp, alongside the Magi Highway (c. 40 km south-east of Port Moresby). Each of theses sites, with the exception of Kobibi Swamp, had been regularly visited by members of the PNGBS over the previous five years.

At sites covered in both 1990 and 1991 numbers of species and birds were lower in 1991. Thirty-eight species were recorded in 1991 (c.f. 52 species in 1990, Hicks 1991). Several factors contributed to the lower totals. The preceding year had been wetter than usual with record rainfall in June and September 1990, as a result the flooding was more extensive in 1991 than 1990 and wildfowl were more widely dispersed. Two wetlands had become infested with exotic water weeds. Lakes Bunu and Iaraguma are infested with Salvinia. Although the weed appears to be dying out on Lake Iaraguma, there was more open water in 1991, it does not appear to be attractive to birds. Lake Bunu has become infected more recently and now has little open water, causing reduced numbers of (visible) waterfowl. Moitaka settling ponds, and the nearby Waigani Swamp, are being overgrown with water hyacinth Eichornia crassipes. It was first noted in September 1990 and by the time of the AWC covered 2.5 ha (25%) of the largest pond. (This had increased to 50% of the ponds' area by the end of February 1991). The city council are attempting to clear the weed, but with little success. Disturbance by the weed-clearers probably reduced bird numbers at the settling ponds. Fisherman were present at Hisiu Lagoon on the day of the AWC, which probably explains the reduced count at this site.

The following observations were of interest for the Port Moresby area. All species of egret were noted in breeding plumage, including 18 Cattle Egrets at Kanosia Lagoon. Australasian Grebes were in breeding plumage at all sites where recorded but breeding was only confirmed at one, on the PAC settling ponds. A single Australian White-eyed Duck and Garganey were seen at Kanosia Lagoon where there were also 14 Wood Sandpipers (and 10 Red-rumped Swallows and five Barn Swallows). The best selection of waders was at Hisiu Lagoon where there were 18 Greenshank, 11 Marsh Sandpiper and 44 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers plus two White-headed Shelduck and four Sacred Ibis.

Hicks, R.K. 1991. Asian Waterfowl Census : Port Moresby Area 1991. Muruk 5: 8-11.
Perennou, C., P. Rose & C. Poole. 1990. Asian Waterfowl Census 1990. IWRB, Slimbridge, U.K.
Scott, D.A. (ed). 1989. A Directory of Asian Wetlands. IUCN.
Scott, D.A. & P. Rose 1989. Asian Waterfowl Census 1989. IWRB, Slimbridge, U.K.